The Lowdown
Ecuador’s spectacular Baños de Agua to Puyo route covers 60km dropping some 1,000 metres through dramatic scenery, the route is a must for anyone spending time in Baños and here I give you some useful tips and advice for those wanting to experience it by bike.
There are almost a dozen waterfalls to enjoy along the route, known locally as the “Ruta de las Cascadas”. You will also experience noticeable changes in landscape, fauna, temperature and humidity as you descend to Puyo, the gateway to the amazon!
The Route
The ride begins in Baños, surrounded by the steep green misty hillsides, and follows a main road (E30) down the Pastaza Valley. To begin the ride, leave the town centre heading north towards the main road and head right – it’s that easy.
The first third of the ride is the most popular and many people opt to cover just this section that takes in some of the most beautiful waterfalls. The piece de resistance is the Pailón del Diablo waterfall (in Río Verde). This is where many people choose to hitch a ride back to Baños. There are pickup trucks that frequent the car parks at Río Verde looking for tourists and their bikes needing a lift back. A ride should cost a few dollars per person. There are also a few restaurants and refreshment options in Rio Verde.
It is possible to view the waterfall from each side, both are fantastic and have their advantages, I opted to visit both. The highlight being a cave scramble on your knees that takes you partly behind the falls. Each side takes 30-80 minutes in total depending on fitness level and how long you wish to spend enjoying the views. The more popular side takes considerably longer (a longer walk down and then back up).
The section between Baños and Pailon del Diablo is very popular with tourists and there are several adventure sports that can be undertaken (valley swings, ziplines, suspension bridges, suspension trolleys, bungee). Mega Adventure Park Río Blanco appeared to be one of the more popular ones. After Pailón Del Diablo there is very little more in terms of tourist attractions, aside from the incredible scenery!
If you have the time and energy, I recommend continuing to Puyo. The change in scenery as you descend is fantastic… the narrow steep valley slowly opens out into a wide flat valley housing the ever-growing river. You will notice the landscape, fauna and climate becoming much more tropical!
A word of warning for the final 40km – there are some hill climbs but with a good bike and functioning gears they are very manageable.
Puyo bus station has several companies that cover the route back to Baños. I had barely entered the station when I was ushered to the correct ticket office and then to my bus all within a few minutes. Unlike many bus stations this was certainly a stress-free experience. Bikes are stowed underneath. The comfortable journey back took just under two hours and drops you on E30 not far from the town centre.
What to take?
I recommend travelling as light as you can safely, I took:
- Bike helmet, chain and lock
- Water and snacks / lunch (there are places to buy water, however after Pailon del Diablo there is a large section with nothing)
- Sunscreen & sunglasses
- Insect repellent (for when you near Puyo)
- Rain jacket (I got soaked during an unexpected downpour… can also be worn around the falls in the splash)
- Mobile phone & cash
Top Tips
- Start early, most people set off before 9am to make the most of the waterfalls and scenery.
- Thoroughly check your bike before leaving, not only the brakes but also the gears (I did not check my gears… lesson learnt!) – don’t be afraid to ask for a different bike.
- It is not permitted to cycle through tunnels along the route, there is one exception, the rest have off shoots that take riders along beautiful hillside tracks away from the traffic.
- If you run a flat tyre, as you approach Puyo there are a few petrol stations with free air. I ran a flat and was just about able to reach a petrol station. Some rentals provide puncture repair kits.
- If the ride becomes too much, you can stop at a bus stop and hitch a ride back up, the driver will try fit your bike under or on top of the bus.
- The road can get busy on public holidays and weekends when more locals visit, so, if possible, a weekday is best to ride. I rode on a public holiday weekend, and it wasn’t too bad…
- If you are a nervous rider, some buses and trucks can pass by a little close but keep your eyes straight ahead focusing on the road and it will be fine.
- Post bike ride there are some good thermal spa options in Baños to soothe the muscles! I took full advantage then ate a huge meal before passing out!
- The “Relive” app is a great way to capture the route. If you don’t have mobile data in Ecuador, you can set up the app and download the map before leaving your accommodation. The first month is free. My first Relive attempt is below.
Highlights
- Pailon del Diablo – the waterfall and heavily wooden valley are stunning!
- Cycling beneath a waterfall on the dirt track just before the Mega Adventure Park
- Completing the 64km ride despite a puncture, dodgy bike and some very heavy downpours! A fantastic day!
