First impressions of Luang Prabang in Laos were very positive – the streets were very clean, it looked more developed than Cambodia (my last destination), they drove slowly and mainly on the correct side of the road… although the latter two didn’t last long!
The city was beautiful, peaceful and seemed to have a much slower of life pace versus Cambodia (especially Siem Reap). The main reason for my visit was to see the very impressive waterfalls, travel on the Mekong River and relax for a few days.
The waterfalls were amazing! So many turquoise pools dropping in to one another, in one panoramic view there was probably over 20 in sight and you can swim in most of them, albeit the water was very fresh, which was quite welcoming in the heat of the day! I visited both Kuang Si and Tad Sae, the former is the more impressive (also the busier) but I would recommend visiting both. At Tad Sae I was able to relax and watch elephants bathing with their handlers in one of the larger pools. Tad Sae is best visited in the rainy season outside of that I hear some of the waterfalls can dry up and don’t look quite as impressive, nevertheless you can take a walk through the tropical forest.
A rather uncomfortable and dangerous mini bus journey took me to Vang Vieng in the south over a high mountain pass. Going up was fine but coming down not so good… a large portion of the road was now dirt track following a recent landslide. Although the views were spectacular, I was on the back seat elevated above the rest and holding on for dear life! The driver was crazy – blind corners were acceptable places to attempt to overtake, he would beep his horn and off he went!
If you do follow this route, some people deferred the back seats and waited for the next minivan (there were a few, they just sort of left when they were full), had I known this was an option I would have done the same…
Vang Vieng is a small less developed town built on outdoor activities and a few party bars. There are so many activities on offer in Vang Vieng, my three days was not enough! During my stay I tried to squeeze in as much as possible.
- a day trip of cave tubing, ziplining, a blue lagoon visit and to finish a 15km kayak back to town – we capsized on the first rapids due to hidden rocks – dry season now. I wouldn’t recommend the canoeing in the dry season – too many rocks, dangerous & so not too fun!
- buggy racing down the dirt tracks around town and the surrounding villages splashing through the puddles
- two wild nights out down Sakura Bar
- and of course… the infamous Vang Vieng River Tubing – a backpackers rite of passage! Sitting on the inner tube of a tractor tyre, you float down the river in the sun stopping off at a couple of lively bars for very cheap and strong drinks! A lot of fun and a great experience, especially the final 2km float to town through beautiful scenery with a beer in hand. The tubing is very different from what it was 10 years ago nevertheless it was a lot of fun, most people don’t manage to complete the route and end up staying at one of the two wild bars. Be warned there are only really two bars now and both are unfortunately quite near the start (this was in late 2017 – it may have changed slightly now)
From Vang Vieng I was supposed to be heading to Bangkok for two days before joining a G Adventures trip. However, the taxi driver from the BK airport managed to talk me in to going to Pattaya for the weekend. I was happily heading to my hotel in BK when at the last minute I caved in and agreed to his offer, he dangerously veered across two busy motorway lanes infront of beeping horns before turning around with a massive grin on his face, “Last exit for Pattaya my friend”.
The city was crazy!! I feel there were as many bars and nightclubs as customers there. The first night I relaxed in the hotel before having a big night out down Walking Street the next day taking in the infamous Insomnia nightclub… from what I can remember it was fun! Speaking to a few locals they recommended I come back for Songkran in April 2018… which I happily did!
Highlights
Best Drink: Beerlao Dark or anything on sale in Sakura Bar
Best Food: the mega-loaded hotdogs they sell to drunk tourists in the early hours outside Sakura Bar!
Best Experience: tubing and chasing waterfalls around Luang Prabang